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A dirt road winding down through hill forest into thick fog, with bare trees standing against the mist
Fog on a road in the hills of north Bengal

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Bengal's ghost stories, place by place: where each is set, and what to hear

Dow Hill in Kurseong, the Sundarbans, Bishnupur, Begunkodar and a Sealdah local at eleven at night: the places Bengal's ghost stories are set, what is really there, and an audio story to play for each.

Eshita GhoshPublished

In this post (11)

Ask a Bengali where the ghosts live and you will not get one answer. In the village it is the tamarind tree at the edge of the pond. In the hills it is a school corridor after the last bell. In the Sundarbans it is the forest itself, and the tiger in it. The folklore gives each place its own kind: the petni in the trees, the mechho bhoot by the pond who wants your fish, the nishi who calls you at night in a voice you know, and in the delta, as Wikipedia's article on ghosts in Bengali culture sets out, the begho bhoot of those the tigers took. So a map of Bengal's ghost stories is really a map of Bengal, and you can walk it one region at a time, with a story to play in each. Start in the hills.

Kurseong: Dow Hill and its school

Dow Hill is a pine-covered ridge above Kurseong, and it carries two old boarding schools a kilometre apart. Victoria Boys' School was founded in 1879 by Sir Ashley Eden, then Lieutenant Governor of Bengal, for the children of railway employees. The ghosts came later, and they came to stay: Wikipedia's list of haunted places in India calls Dow Hill one of the most haunted places in the state, especially the school's corridors and the woods around it. That is the reputation. The record is a school founded for railwaymen's children. Nobody in these stories is on holiday.

51:05Play: Dow Hill-er Atonko

Dow Hill-er Atonko

THRILLER LAND

Karna Sil's second Bhuban Thakur story. A teenage boy vanishes on Dow Hill; up the slope stands a church nobody may enter, with something drawn on its floor. 51 minutes. Our first pick of the whole post.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · THRILLER LAND

6:57Play: Dow Hill-er Daak

Dow Hill-er Daak

Mirchi Bangla

Swarnavo Banerjee's six-minute story, in Mirchi Bangla's Haar Heem Horror series. For the walk back to the car.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · Mirchi Bangla

Darjeeling and Kalimpong: fog and old houses

Further up, the stories move indoors. Kalimpong has a famous candidate of its own: Morgan House, a colonial mansion of the early 1930s, sits on the same Wikipedia list with its reported sightings of Lady Morgan. The two recordings below are not about Morgan House, but they know the kind of building.

47:19Play: Darjeeling-er Bhoutik Ghotona

Darjeeling-er Bhoutik Ghotona

221B Harrison Road

Debashree Bhattacharya's Darjeeling story, on 221B Harrison Road. 47 minutes.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

3:54:42Play: Heruk

Heruk

Mirchi Bangla

Soumitra Biswas's long thriller: an ancestral house in Kalimpong up for sale, and a Buddhist tantric rite far older than anyone in the family. Nearly four hours on Sunday Suspense, first broadcast 29 December 2024. Keep it for a whole evening.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · Mirchi Bangla

The Dooars: Buxa and the cottage in the forest

The ghosts of the Dooars have a political history. Buxa Fort, high in the forest of the Buxa Tiger Reserve, was a Bhutanese frontier fort that the British turned into a detention camp for Bengal's revolutionaries in the 1930s. Tagore wrote a poem to keep the prisoners' spirits up, and years later the poet Subhash Mukhopadhyay, himself held there, called it a prison in the clouds. Stand in a forest where men waited out their youth and you will see why the story-tellers keep going back.

4:59:57Play: Panijhora Cottage

Panijhora Cottage

Mirchi Bangla

Sixteen writers wrote this one together, for Mirchi Bangla's Sunday Suspense. Two friends, no way out for the night, a cottage in the Buxa hills built a century ago, and the freedom struggle still somewhere in its walls. About five hours, first broadcast 15 September 2024.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · Mirchi Bangla

The Sundarbans: the forest that has its own ghosts

To us, the Sundarbans are the one place in Bengal where the folklore and the danger are the same thing. The delta's mangroves are a tiger reserve and, since 1987, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The fishermen's ghosts here are the aleya, marsh lights that lead boats astray, and the begho bhoot, the ghosts of those killed by tigers, linked, perhaps, to Dakshin Rai, the forest's own lord of beasts.

44:22Play: Jhorer Raate Sundarban

Jhorer Raate Sundarban

221B Harrison Road

A stormy night in the Sundarbans, by Debashree Bhattacharya and Sumitendra Ghosh, on 221B Harrison Road. 44 minutes.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

1:16:59Play: Sundarbaner Bhuter Golpo

Sundarbaner Bhuter Golpo

221B Harrison Road

Deeper in: Debashree Bhattacharya's longer Sundarbans story, 76 minutes.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

Bishnupur and Bankura: temples and red earth

Bishnupur is the town of the Malla kings' terracotta temples, built in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, on UNESCO's tentative list since 1997. Come by day and it is a place for photographs. Stay the night, in these stories, and the forest around it takes over.

40:48Play: Bishnupurer Jongole Ek Raat

Bishnupurer Jongole Ek Raat

221B Harrison Road

One night in the forest near Bishnupur, by Sagar Kumar Pathak, on 221B Harrison Road. 40 minutes.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

41:42Play: Bankurar Ek Hotel

Bankurar Ek Hotel

221B Harrison Road

A hotel in Bankura, by Sreemoyee Dutta. 41 minutes. The best argument yet for booking ahead.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

Purulia and Jangalmahal: the station that closed

Purulia has a ghost story from real life, and it is about a railway station. Begunkodar opened in 1960. According to the villagers, in 1967 a railway employee said he had seen a woman's ghost there, and soon trains stopped halting at all. The station stayed shut for forty-two years and reopened as a halt in August 2009. Was it ever haunted? Basudeb Acharia, the CPI(M) leader from Purulia, said railway staff had made the story up so they would not be posted there. Both versions are on Wikipedia. You can choose which one to believe on the platform, after dark.

55:07Play: Puruliar School Master

Puruliar School Master

221B Harrison Road

A schoolmaster in Purulia, by Debashree Bhattacharya. 55 minutes, on 221B Harrison Road.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

1:01:02Play: Jangalmahale Panchakaroti

Jangalmahale Panchakaroti

THRILLER LAND

Karna Sil's Bhuban Thakur again, the fifth story: abandoned quarters in the forest of Jhargram. 61 minutes, on THRILLER LAND. If you liked Dow Hill, this is its southern cousin.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · THRILLER LAND

Birbhum and Bardhaman: the village at night

49:01Play: Birbhumer Sei Rohosyomoy Matir Dhibi

Birbhumer Sei Rohosyomoy Matir Dhibi

221B Harrison Road

A photographer comes to Kadamgachhi, a village in Birbhum, for the quiet. By the house there is a mound of earth that someone still tends. 49 minutes, on 221B Harrison Road.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

57:27Play: Bardhamaner Ek Grame

Bardhamaner Ek Grame

221B Harrison Road

A village in Bardhaman, by Paramita Chatterjee. 57 minutes.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

Murshidabad: a capital that lost its court

Murshidabad was the capital of the Bengal Subah for seventy years, and its long decline began when Siraj-ud-Daulah lost at Plassey in 1757. A town that has outlived its own importance is where Bengal's ghost-story writers love to send their characters for the night.

37:01Play: Nishuti Raate Murshidabad

Nishuti Raate Murshidabad

221B Harrison Road

Murshidabad in the dead of night, by Debashree Bhattacharya. 37 minutes.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

Medinipur and the Ganga

Medinipur has its own legend on the same Wikipedia list: Dub Pukur in Haldia, a pond where, the story goes, a midwife was drowned in the early eighteenth century and a scream is heard every twenty-five years on Bhoot Chaturdashi. The recording below stays inland, at a railway station, which in Bengal is where half the ghosts wait.

44:00Play: Medinipur Statione Ek Raat

Medinipur Statione Ek Raat

221B Harrison Road

One night at Medinipur station, by Paramita Chatterjee, with over half a million YouTube views. 44 minutes.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

44:06Play: Chandni Raate Gangar Chore

Chandni Raate Gangar Chore

221B Harrison Road

A moonlit night on a sandbank of the Ganga, by Hemendra Kumar Ray, the old master of Bengali adventure. 44 minutes. More of his stories are on his author page.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

Kolkata: Garstin Place and the last local

Kolkata's haunted buildings deserve a post of their own. Two stories for now. The first is set at Garstin Place, where the city's radio station worked from 1927 until 1961, in a building that had a haunted reputation and was pulled down in 1997. Our Mahalaya post tells that history. The man credited with the story is the voice of Mahalaya himself.

8:30Play: Garstin Place-er Saheb Bhoot

Garstin Place-er Saheb Bhoot

Mirchi Bangla

Birendra Krishna Bhadra's sahib's ghost of Garstin Place, on Mirchi Bangla's Sunday Suspense Classics. Eight and a half minutes.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · Mirchi Bangla

48:59Play: Raat 11tar Sealdah Local

Raat 11tar Sealdah Local

221B Harrison Road

Ankita Ghosh's story of the eleven o'clock local from Sealdah, on 221B Harrison Road. 48 minutes and 1.5 million YouTube views: every commuter knows the carriage.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · 221B Harrison Road

And a haunted palace outside Bengal

One of Tagore's ghost stories sends its hero out of Bengal altogether. Tagore's Kshudhita Pashan, written in 1895, is set in a marble palace at Barich, and Tagore took the idea from Shah Jahan's Moti Shahi Mahal in Ahmedabad, by the Sabarmati, where his elder brother Satyendranath was serving as a judge. A Bengali who has read it never quite trusts an old palace again, whichever state it is in.

53:40Play: Khudito Pashan

Khudito Pashan

Mirchi Bangla

Tagore's story on Mirchi Bangla's Sunday Suspense Classics. 53 minutes. More Tagore is on his author page.

▶ Play hereWatch on YouTube · Mirchi Bangla

For the teller we would put above all the rest, the man in the house on Mott Lane, our Taranath Tantrik guide says where to start. And whichever region you are from, play its story tonight. The ghosts in it grew up where you did.

References (9)
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